Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a gentle vitamin C ester that has benefits for dry skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has clinically been shown to improve skin texture, brighten skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been studied in clinical studies at various doses - from 1% to 30%, with all doses showing some skin benefits.
This article will discuss:
- What is vitamin C?
- What is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate?
- Benefits of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
- 1. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can improve your skin texture
- 2. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can protect your skin
- 3. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can boost collagen
- 4. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can brighten your skin
- 5. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has anti-aging activity
- How much tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate?
- Is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate safe?
- Summary
- References
What is vitamin C?
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a crucial role in various bodily functions.
Vitamin C is an essential nutrient, which means that it cannot be made by the human body and must be obtained from dietary sources or supplements.
Vitamin C is essential for skin health and nutritional deficiency of this vitamin leads to skin fragility, skin discoloration, bruising and delayed wound healing as seen in scurvy (Gandhi et al, 2023).
Vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants in the skin, and it can protect against UV damage and photoaging. Vitamin C also has an anti-aging effect by increasing collagen synthesis, stabilizing collagen fibers, and decreasing collagen degradation. It also decreases melanin formation, thereby reducing pigmentation and brightening skin. Vitamin C is the primary replenisher of vitamin E and works synergistically with vitamin E in the protection against oxidative damage (Al-Niaimi et al, 2017).
Vitamin C is available in a number of active forms. Among all forms, ascorbic acid is the most biologically active and well studied.
Despite its numerous benefits, there are several challenges with using topical vitamin C as ascorbic acid, including stability issues, skin penetration and skin irritation.
Stability issues
Ascorbic acid is very sensitive to oxidation when exposed to air, light, and heat (Stamford et al, 2012).
When ascorbic acid oxidizes, it turns yellow to brown and loses its effectiveness, and may even become a skin irritant.
Maintaining the proper pH level for stability is also a challenge, as ascorbic acid is most stable at a low pH, typically around 3.5, but many skincare formulations have a higher pH, potentially compromising its effectiveness.
To mitigate these issues, skincare brands often employ innovative packaging, such as airless containers, and develop formulations with stable vitamin C derivatives or combine ascorbic acid with other antioxidants to prolong its shelf life and maximize its skincare benefits.
Skin penetration issues
Vitamin C as ascorbic acid has skin penetration challenges.
Ascorbic acid is water-soluble, which means it may have difficulty penetrating the lipid-rich barrier of the skin. Lipid-soluble substances typically have an easier time passing through the skin.
Ascorbic acid is also a charged molecule, which further limits its penetration (Pinnell et al, 2001).
Interestingly, ascorbic acid concentrations were tested from 5% to 30% and tissue levels of ascorbic acid increased, but were maximal at 20%. For unknown reasons, concentration levels higher than 20% resulted in decreased tissue levels (Pinnell et al, 2001). These results indicate that higher amounts of ascorbic acid do not necessarily mean better absorption.
To overcome these obstacles, skincare formulations employ various strategies such as adjusting pH, using penetration-enhancing ingredients, and developing derivatives of vitamin C to enhance skin penetration and maximize the potential benefits for skin health.
Irritation issues
Vitamin C as ascorbic acid may cause skin irritation and redness, especially for those with sensitive skin.
Vitamin C as ascorbic acid must be formulated at a pH lower than 3.5 to be effective, which is much lower than the skin's natural pH level of 4.5 to 6.5 (Pinnell et al, 2001; Lambers et al, 2006).
Furthermore, as vitamin C is exposed to air it oxidizes and breaks down to dehydroascorbate, generating reactive intermediates such as ascorbate free radical and hydrogen peroxide, which can also cause skin irritation (Kramarenko et al, 2006; Duarte et al, 2007).
In safety studies, a cream containing 5% ascorbic acid did not induce dermal sensitization in 103 human subjects. A product containing 10% ascorbic acid was non-irritant in a 4-day patch assay on human skin and a facial treatment containing 10% ascorbic acid was not a contact sensitizer in a maximization assay on 26 humans (reviewed by Elmore et al, 2005).
The optimal concentration of vitamin C as ascorbic depends on its formulation.
Studies have shown that ascorbic acid concentrations above 20% do not increase its biological significance and, conversely, might cause some irritation (Pinnell et al, 2001).
If you have dry or sensitive skin, it is best to avoid high dose ascorbic acid.
What is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate?
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a gentle vitamin C ester that is also known as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbate.
Chemically, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a lipid-soluble ascorbic acid precursor esterified with branched chain fatty acid (2-hexyldecanoic acid).
Highly stable form of vitamin C
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a highly stable form of vitamin C and it is less prone to oxidation compared to other forms of vitamin C such as ascorbic acid (Maia Campos et al, 2012).
Oxidation can render vitamin C ineffective, but the stability of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate ensures a longer shelf life and better efficacy in skincare products.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has a shelf life of 6 - 12 months (Maia Campos et al, 2012).
Better skin penetration
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C, meaning it can penetrate the lipid barrier of the skin more easily compared to water-soluble forms of vitamin C like ascorbic acid. This enhanced penetration allows it to reach deeper layers of the skin, where it can provide more significant benefits for dry skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is reported to have an improved stability and ability to penetrate the lipophilic stratum corneum, compared to other forms of vitamin C (Kelm et al, 2020; Fitzpatrick et al, 2002).
Less irritation
Vitamin C as ascorbic acid can be irritating to those with dry, sensitive skin. Proper formulation and pH adjustment are crucial to minimize this risk.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has an optimal pH of 4.0–6.0, which is compatible to skin (Maia Campos et al, 2012).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is gentle and has inherent emollient properties, which means it can help moisturize and nourish the skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is generally well-tolerated by various skin types, including dry and sensitive skin.
Benefits of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has numerous benefits for dry skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has clinically been shown to improve skin texture, brighten skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is considered a highly effective form of vitamin C for dry skin for several reasons.- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can improve your skin texture
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can protect your skin
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can boost collagen
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can brighten your skin
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has anti-aging activity
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been studied in clinical studies at various doses - from 1% to 30%, with all doses showing some skin benefits.
1. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can improve your skin texture
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is gentle and has inherent emollient properties, which means it can help moisturize and nourish the skin. It aids in replenishing lost moisture and contributes to the hydration of dry skin.
In a clinical trial with 20 adults, 1% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate had pronounced moisturizing effects on the skin and improved skin smoothness and roughness (Maia Campos et al, 2012).
In a randomized, double-blind, single-center study, adult women were treated with a lotion containing 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate with a blend of antioxidants and prebiotics. In the 12-week clinical study, 93.5% of subjects saw increased evenness of skin tone, 83.9% saw an increase in skin firmness (Zahr et al, 2019).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can be integrated into a wide range of skincare products without causing irritation, thus accommodating a broad spectrum of skin types. This underscores its versatility as a skin-nourishing agent.
2. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can protect your skin
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has antioxidant activity and can protect your skin.
Antioxidants protect your skin
Antioxidants protect your skin by preventing free radical damage.
Free radicals are unstable molecules or atoms that can damage skin cells.
Free radicals are generated from normal aging, and by daily environmental damage - such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun and air pollution. Free radicals cause destruction to your cells and tissues, and accelerate skin aging (Masaki et al, 2010).
Antioxidants protect your skin by neutralizing unstable free radicals.
What is oxidative stress?
Your skin is susceptible to oxidative stress due to UV radiation from the sun and air pollution.
Oxidative stress occurs when the number of pro-oxidant species exceeds the number of antioxidant species.
For the skin, the consequences of this imbalance include inflammation, phototoxicity and accelerated aging (Trouba et al, 2002; Pinnell et al, 2003).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has antioxidant activity
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been shown to have antioxidant free radical-scavenging properties, even when used at low concentrations (Maia Campos et al, 2008).
The antioxidant profile of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been tested against various reactive oxygen species.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has strong activity against singlet oxygen and it has scavenging activity against hydrogen peroxide, and it can effectively inhibit lipid peroxidation (Swindell et al, 2021).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate suppressed the elevation of intracellular peroxide after UVB irradiation, and enhanced cellular tolerance against UVB and reactive oxygen species such as hydrogen peroxide and tert-butyl hydroperoxide (Ochiai et al, 2006).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has also been shown to protect skin cells against UVA-induced oxidative damage (Xiao et al, 2009).
Overall, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a potent antioxidant and can protect your skin against oxidative damage.
3. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can boost collagen
The loss of collagen is a characteristic finding in aged skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been shown to promote collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts in a concentration-dependent manner (Xiao et al, 2009).
Indeed, treatment with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate had a small (<10%) but significant increase in cellular levels of collagen 4 and collagen 6 proteins in neonatal and adult fibroblasts (Swindell et al, 2021).
Interestingly, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate showed a collagen-increasing activity more potent than ascorbic acid at the same concentrations (Xiao et al, 2009).
Furthermore, it was also shown that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate not only promotes collagen synthesis, but also can reduce the activity of matrix metalloproteinases to prevent collagen degradation (Xiao et al, 2009).
There are also studies showing skin benefits of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate when combined with other actives.
In a double-blind, split-face study, 10 adults were treated with a vitamin C complex containing 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and 10% ascorbic acid. The vitamin C complex resulted in biopsy evidence of new collagen formation (Fitzpatrick et al, 2002).
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can stimulates collagen synthesis, similar to other forms of vitamin C. By promoting collagen production, it helps improve skin elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and support the overall health and appearance of dry skin.
4. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can brighten your skin
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been found to have a brightening effect on the skin.
In a clinical trial with 22 adults, 3% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been shown to suppress UVB induced skin pigmentation, i.e. reduce the appearance of "sun spots" or "age spots" (Ochiai et al, 2006).
In a randomized, double-blind, single-center study, adult women were treated with a lotion containing 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate with a blend of antioxidants and prebiotics. In the 12-week clinical study, 93.5% of subjects saw increased evenness of skin tone and 87% saw brighter skin tone (Zahr et al, 2019).
In an open label clinical trial, 10 women were treated twice daily with 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serum with blend of antioxidants in combination with an SPF 45 sunscreen moisturizer for 12 weeks for the treatment of melasma during the summer months. All subjects showed an improvement in hyperpigmentation with an average improvement of 33.7%. The majority of subject (70%) also showed an improvement in skin tone evenness (redness) and among those subjects, the average improvement was 33.3% (Kelm et al, 2020).
There are also studies showing skin benefits of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate when combined with other actives.
A clinical trial assessed 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate ascorbate coupled with retinol for hyperpigmentation and photodamaged facial skin and found a similar redness response with 72% of their patients improving at an average of 10.7% with respect to skin tone evenness (Herndon et al, 2016).
Overall, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can help to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage. This can result in a more even and radiant complexion.
5. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has anti-aging activity
In a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, split face clinical trial with 3 groups of 23 women, topical application of 1%, 2%, or 3% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate cream reduced periorbital wrinkles caused by skin aging (Yokota et al, 2022).
Higher doses of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate have also been investigated.
A randomized, double-blind, single-center study was conducted to investigate a lotion containing 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate with a blend of antioxidants and prebiotic innovation in adult women over the age of 35 years.
In the 12-week clinical study, 93.5% of subjects saw increased evenness of skin tone, 87% saw brighter skin tone, 83.9% saw an increase in skin firmness. Also, a significant improvement in wrinkle volume and depth was visible at 12 weeks. The results suggest that this novel antioxidant formulation containing 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate may correct and prevent extrinsic and intrinsic aging (Zahr et al, 2019).
There are also studies showing skin benefits of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate when combined with other actives.
In a double-blind, split-face study, 10 adults were treated with a vitamin C complex containing 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and 10% ascorbic acid. The vitamin C complex resulted in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in skin wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks. The clinical improvement correlated with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation (Fitzpatrick et al, 2002).
Overall, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has anti-aging activity and can give your skin a more youthful appearance.
How much tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate?
What dose of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is best for skin benefits?
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been studied in clinical studies at various doses - from 1% to 30%, with all doses showing some skin benefits.
In a clinical trial with 20 adults, 1% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate had pronounced moisturizing effects on the skin and improved skin smoothness and roughness (Maia Campos et al, 2012).
In a clinical trial with 22 adults, 3% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate suppressed UVB induced skin pigmentation, i.e. tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate reduced the appearance of "sun spots" or "age spots" (Ochiai et al, 2006).
In a clinical trial with 3 groups of 23 women, topical application of 1%, 2%, or 3% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate cream reduced periorbital wrinkles caused by skin aging (Yokota et al, 2022).
Higher doses of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate have also been investigated.
In a clinical trial with 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, 93.5% of women saw increased evenness of skin tone, 87% saw brighter skin tone, 83.9% saw an increase in skin firmness. Also, a significant improvement in wrinkle volume and depth was visible at 12 weeks. The results suggest that 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate may correct and prevent extrinsic and intrinsic aging (Zahr et al, 2019).
In another clinical trial with 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, all subjects showed an improvement in hyperpigmentation with an average improvement of 33.7%. The majority of subject (70%) also showed an improvement in skin tone evenness (redness) and among those subjects, the average improvement was 33.3% (Kelm et al, 2020).
There are also studies showing skin benefits of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate when combined with other actives.
In a clinical trial, 10 adults were treated with a vitamin C complex containing 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and 10% ascorbic acid. The vitamin C complex resulted in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in skin wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks. The clinical improvement correlated with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation (Fitzpatrick et al, 2002).
Another clinical trial assessed 30% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate coupled with retinol for hyperpigmentation and photodamaged facial skin and found a similar redness response with 72% of their patients improving at an average of 10.7% with respect to skin tone evenness (Herndon et al, 2016).
Overall, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has skin benefits at various doses.
Is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate safe?
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is considered safe as used in cosmetics in concentrations up to 30% even when combined with other bio-active ingredients, including ascorbic acid and/or retinol (Fitzpatrick et al, 2002; Herndon et al, 2016).
However, as with all active ingredients, skin sensitivities can occur.
A case report of allergic contact dermatitis has been reported in response to two eye creams and a face cream that contained tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (Scheman et al, 2022).
As with all new products, a patch test should be done to determine safety before applying to large areas of skin.
Talk to your doctor or dermatologist before starting treatment with vitamin C or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.
Summary
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a gentle vitamin C ester that has many benefits for dry skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been shown to improve skin texture, protect against UV damage, boost collagen, brighten skin, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has been studied in clinical studies at various doses - from 1% to 30%, with all doses showing some skin benefits.
Talk to your doctor or dermatologist before starting treatment with vitamin C or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.
We use tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in our skincare formulas.
Dry Skin Love Brightening Pineapple 10% Vitamin C Face Oil will transform your dry skin into soft, plump and radiant skin.
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Author Information
Dr. Natasha Ryz is a scientist, skin care expert and an entrepreneur. She is the founder of Dry Skin Love Skincare, and she creates skincare products for beauty, dry skin and pain relief.
Dr. Ryz has a PhD in Experimental Medicine from the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, and she is a Vanier scholar. She also holds a Master of Science degree and a Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Manitoba in Winnipeg.
Natasha is the former Chief Science Officer of Zenabis Global, and she oversaw extraction, analytics, and product development. Her team brought 20 products to market including oils, sprays, vapes and softgels.
Why I Started A Skincare Company