Vitamin E is an essential nutrient and it has benefits for your skin.
When applied topically, vitamin E is a skin conditioning agent, a powerful antioxidant and it can protect your skin against photodamage from the sun.
Vitamin E is a group of eight fat-soluble compounds known as tocopherols and tocotrienols. Topical vitamin E skincare can contain various forms of vitamin E, however alpha-tocopherol is the most common form.
Topical vitamin E comes in the form of creams, lotions, oils, serums, or other skincare preparations that contain vitamin E as an active ingredient. These products are designed to be applied externally to the skin to deliver the benefits of vitamin E directly to the targeted area.
This article will discuss:
- What is vitamin E?
- What is topical vitamin E?
- Benefits of topical vitamin E
- How does vitamin E get to the skin?
- How much vitamin E is in skin?
- What depletes vitamin E from skin?
- Natural sources of vitamin E
- Types of vitamin E in skincare
- How much topical vitamin E?
- Summary
- References
What is vitamin E?
Vitamin E is a group of fat-soluble compounds that are important for skin health.
As an essential vitamin, vitamin E cannot be produced by the human body and must be obtained from your diet, supplements and/or skincare.
Vitamin E is a family of related compounds with different vitamin E activities and antioxidant properties that includes tocopherols, tocotrienols and plastochromanol-8 (Trela et al, 2019).
Structurally, the tocopherols are saturated forms of vitamin E, whereas the tocotrienols are unsaturated and possess an isoprenoid side chain (Asan et al, 2015).
(image from Fiume et al, 2018)
Tocochromanols
Tocopherols and tocotrienols are collectively known as tocochromanols.
Eight naturally occurring structural analogs of vitamin E are known, four tocopherols (alpha, beta, gamma and delta-analogs) and four tocotrienols (alpha, beta, gamma and delta-analogs).
Interestingly, research has shown that mixed tocopherols, containing gamma-, delta-, and alpha-tocopherol (5:2:1) have better antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions than alpha-tocopherol alone (Saldeen et al, 2005).
Tocopherols
1. Alpha-tocopherol
Alpha-tocopherol is the most biologically active and commonly studied form of vitamin E. It is the form of vitamin E most often found in the human body and has the highest antioxidant activity (Yoshida et al, 2007).
Alpha-tocopherol has been shown to have anti-inflammatory activity (Reiter et al, 2007).
2. Beta-tocopherol
Beta-tocopherol is another form of vitamin E, but it is less prevalent and has a lower antioxidant activity compared to alpha-tocopherol (Yoshida et al, 2007).
Interestingly, beta-tocopherol has been shown to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in preliminary experiments (Kamei et al, 2009).
3. Gamma-tocopherol
Gamma-tocopherol is another form of vitamin E. It has unique antioxidant properties and may have different physiological effects compared to alpha-tocopherol (Yoshida et al, 2007).
Gamma-tocopherol has been found to possess anti-inflammatory properties (Jiang et al, 2014; Jiang et al, 2022).
Gamma-tocopherol also has been shown to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in preliminary experiments (Kamei et al, 2009).
4. Delta-tocopherol
Delta-tocopherol is another form of vitamin E, though it is found in smaller quantities compared to other tocopherols.
Delta-tocopherol is also an antioxidant, and has been shown to have anti-inflammatory activity (Jiang et al, 2014).
Tocotrienols
5. Alpha-tocotrienol
Alpha-tocotrienol is the most studied and biologically active form of tocotrienols. It exhibits potent antioxidant properties and may have additional health benefits beyond traditional vitamin E functions.
The alpha-isomers of both tocopherol and tocotrienol are the most effective scavengers in vitamin E.
Interestingly, the tocotrienols are more readily incorporated into liposomal membranes, which suggests that this group of molecules would be most effective in protecting against cell damage by reactive species, compared to the tocopherols (Yoshida et al, 2007).
6. Beta-tocotrienol
Beta-tocotrienol is another form of tocotrienol, but it is less well-studied compared to alpha-tocotrienol.
7. Gamma-tocotrienol
Gamma-tocotrienol is another form of tocotrienol.
Gamma-tocotrienol has unique antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties (Jiang et al, 2014).
8. Delta-tocotrienol
Delta-tocotrienol is another form of tocotrienol, though it is less extensively studied compared to other tocotrienols.
Plastochromanol-8
Plastochromanol-8 is a gamma-tocotrienol derivative with a longer side chain (Trela et al, 2019).
Plastochromanol-8 is an antioxidant that, together with tocopherols and tocotrienols, belongs to the group of tocochromanols (Kruk et al, 2014).
Plastochromanol-8 has been found to occur in several plant species, including mosses, and lichens, seeds and leaves (Trela et al, 2019).
Each form of vitamin E has unique properties, but alpha-tocopherol is the most widely recognized and extensively researched form.
When discussing the benefits or effects of vitamin E, it is typically referring to alpha-tocopherol, unless otherwise specified.
However, emerging research is shedding light on the potential health benefits of other forms of vitamin E, particularly tocotrienols, which have distinct biological activities and therapeutic potential.
What is topical vitamin E?
Topical vitamin E refers to the application of vitamin E directly onto the skin in the form of creams, lotions, oils, or serums.
Topical application allows the vitamin E to be absorbed directly into your skin, where it can exert its potential benefits.
Topical vitamin E products are formulated to deliver vitamin E to the outermost layers of the skin. They are often used in skincare routines to provide antioxidant protection, moisturization, and potential therapeutic effects. The concentration and formulation of topical vitamin E can vary depending on the specific product and intended use.
As an ingredient, vitamin E can be found in its natural form, usually as a blend of the 4 tocopherols isomers, or as a synthetic product, being sold as a single isomer, the DL-alpha-tocopherol the most widely available.
In many topical preparations currently marketed, vitamin E, in the form of tocopheryl acetate, functions as a preservative to prevent oxidation of the product on the shelf.
Tocopheryl acetate is remarkably stable but may have no biologic activity. It is an excellent skin conditioner and is included in many over-the counter moisturizers for this purpose (Draelos, 2000).
Benefits of topical vitamin E
Topical vitamin E has many benefits for your skin.
When applied topically, vitamin E is a skin conditioning agent, a powerful antioxidant and it can protect your skin against photodamage from the sun.
Learn more: 5 Benefits of Vitamin E for Dry Skin
Vitamin E is a skin conditioning agent
Skin conditioning agents are substances used in skincare products to improve the overall appearance, texture, and feel of the skin.
Vitamin E is a skin conditioning agent and acts as an emollient.
The function of emollients in skincare is to soften the skin, help the skin retain its moisture and to support the skin’s barrier function.
Skin that does not have sufficient lipid content on its surface can appear dull, dry and rough. Emollients "fill in the gaps" in the skin barrier and soften it along with giving it a healthier look
The role of emollients in the treatment of dry skin conditions is often underestimated. Emollients promote optimal skin health and prevent skin breakdown, and their use can improve quality of life.
Emollients are skin conditioning – the give skin a soft and smooth appearance, restoring suppleness and improving elasticity.
When applied topically, vitamin E can help to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its natural barrier function, and support the overall health and appearance of the skin.
Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant
Antioxidants protect your skin by preventing free radical damage.
Free radicals are unstable molecules or atoms that can damage skin cells.
Free radicals are generated from normal aging, and by daily environmental damage - such as UV radiation from the sun and air pollution. Free radicals cause destruction to your cells and tissues, and accelerate skin aging (Masaki et al, 2010).
Antioxidants protect your skin by neutralizing unstable free radicals.
Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that can protect your skin from stress, damage and premature aging. It can also keep your skincare fresh longer, as vitamin E prevents oxidation and rancidity in oil-based formulas.
Vitamin E protects against sun damage
The best evidence for a beneficial role of topical vitamin E exists for photoprotection. Many studies have shown that applying vitamin E prior to ultraviolet exposure significantly reduces acute skin responses, such as erythema and edema, sunburn cell formation and lipid peroxidation (Thiele et al, 2007).
Chronic skin reactions due to prolonged sun exposure, such as skin wrinkling were also diminished by vitamin E skincare (Thiele et al, 2007).
How does vitamin E get to the skin?
Vitamin E can be delivered to your skin through diet, supplements or topical application through skincare.
Dietary or supplementary vitamin E is delivered to the skin surface through sebum secretion (Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage et al, 2004).
Sebum is an oily, waxy substance produced by your body’s sebaceous glands and eventually released to the surface of the skin. Sebum is primarily made up of non-polar lipids as triglycerides, wax esters and squalene. Sebum coats the skin, seals in moisture, and protects your skin from getting too dry.
Dietary or supplemental vitamin E accumulates in the sebum.
Sebum is secreted to the surface of the skin, where it concentrates in the lipid-rich extracellular matrix of the stratum corneum (Thiele et al, 1998).
Due to its lipophilic nature, vitamin E can then penetrate into all underlying layers of skin (Thiele et al, 1999).
Topical application of vitamin E can also increase the levels of vitamin E in the skin (Traber et al, 1998).
How much vitamin E is in skin?
Vitamin E is found naturally in your skin barrier.
Vitamin E is the most abundant lipophilic "fat-loving" antioxidant found in human skin (Shindo et al, 1994; Rhie et al, 2001).
Alpha-tocopherol is the main type of vitamin E found in your skin barrier, as well as gamma-tocopherol (Shindo et al, 1994; Thiele et al, 1998).
In humans, the epidermis - the outermost layer of skin, has been shown to contains 31 ± 3.8 nmol alpha-tocopherol/g tissue and 3.3 ± 1 nmol gamma-tocopherol/g tissue (Shindo et al, 1994).
Similarly, the outermost layer of human epidermis - called the stratum corneum, has been shown to contain 33 ± 4 nmol alpha-tocopherol/g tissue and 4.8 ± 0.8 nmol gamma-tocopherol/g tissue (Thiele et al, 1998).
The dermis layer is found beneath the epidermis (outer layer) of skin and contains tough connective tissue, hair follicles, and sweat glands.
The dermal layer of human skin has been shown to contain 16.2 ± 1.1 nmol alpha-tocopherol/g tissue and 1.8 ± 0.2 nmol gamma-tocopherol/g tissue (Shindo et al, 1994).
Sebum has been shown to contain 76.5 ± 1.5 nmol alpha-tocopherol/g tissue and 1.8 nmol gamma-tocopherol/g tissue (Thiele et al, 1999).
Skin vitamin E levels are higher in individuals with increased sebum production, as well as in skin types that naturally produce more sebum (Thiele et al, 1999).
What depletes vitamin E from skin?
Vitamin E concentrations in the human epidermis decline with age, UV exposure and pollution.
Aging
In a small study, the concentration of alpha-tocopherol was significantly lower (61%) in the epidermis of aged skin, compared to young skin, however there was no difference in the dermis layer (Rhie et al, 2001).
UV radiation / sunlight
Irradiation of human skin with solar simulated ultraviolet-light at low doses has been shown to deplete human stratum corneum alpha-tocopherol by almost 50%, detected directly after exposure (Thiele et al, 1998).
Therefore, alpha-tocopherol depletion in the stratum corneum is considered a very early and sensitive event of photooxidative damage in skin (Thiele et al, 1998).
The concentration of alpha-tocopherol was also significantly lower in the epidermis of photoaged (56% of young skin level) skin, but not in the dermis (Rhie et al, 2001).
Air pollution
The major targets of ozone in the skin are the superficial epidermal layers; this results in the depletion of antioxidants such as alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in the outer skin layers (Wenk et al, 2001).
Exposure to the pollutant ozone has been shown to deplete vitamin E in the outer layers of skin in animal models (Thiele et al 1997a; 1997b; 1997c).
Benzoyl peroxide
Vitamin E in the outer skin layer - the stratum corneum, is highly susceptible to topical treatment with benzoyl peroxide (Weber et al, 2003).
Benzoyl peroxide is a well known ingredient for treating acne, and can be found in acne-fighting skincare products.
Natural sources of vitamin E
Vitamin E is naturally found in vegetable oils, nuts and seeds.
Plant oils are a natural source of vitamin E, including tocopherols, tocotrienols and plastochromanol-8 (Trela et al, 2019).
Best sources of tocopherols
Tocopherols are the more common form of vitamin E.
The best sources of tocopherols are raspberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, apple seed oil, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, corn seed oil and sunflower seed oil.
One of the richest source of tocopherols is wheat germ oil, which contains 1.37 mg/g alpha-tocopherol and 1.2 mg/g beta-tocopherol (DellaPenna et al, 2005).
Other major sources for vitamin E are: soybean seed oil with 1.2 mg/g total tocopherols, corn seed oil with 1 mg/g tocopherols and sunflower seed oil with 0.7 mg/g tocopherols (DellaPenna et al, 2005).
Cold-pressed fruit seed oils, including raspberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, apple seed oil and strawberry seed oil have been shown to contain high levels of vitamin E, including tocopherols (Pieszka et al 2015).
Raspberry seed oil has 3.02 mg/g of vitamin E. Raspberry seed oil contains high amounts of tocopherols, with 1.93 mg/g of gamma-tocopherol, 0.65 mg/g alpha-tocopherol and 0.32 mg/g delta-tocopherol. Raspberry oil also contains tocotrienols, with 0.04 mg/g gamma-tocotrienol and 0.02 mg/g alpha-tocotrienol.
Blackcurrant seed oil has 2.29 mg/g of vitamin E. Blackcurrant seed oil contains high amounts of tocopherols, with 1.17 mg/g gamma-tocopherol, 0.84 mg/g alpha-tocopherol and 0.18 mg/g delta-tocopherol. Blackcurrant seed oil also contains tocotrienols, including 0.02 mg/g γ-tocotrienol and 0.02 α-tocotrienol.
Apple seed oil has 1.43 mg/g of vitamin E. Apple seed oil contains tocopherols, with 0.62 mg/g beta-tocopherol, 0.41 mg/g alpha-tocopherol, 0.21 delta-tocopherol and 0.13 gamma-tocopherol. Apple seed oil also contains tocotrienol, with 0.03 mg/g gamma-tocotrienol and 0.01 mg/g alpha-tocotrienol.
Strawberry seed oil has 0.58 mg/g of vitamin E. Strawberry seed oil contains tocopherols, with 0.49 mg/g gamma-tocopherol, 0.02 mg/g alpha-tocopherol and 0.06 mg/g delta-tocopherol. Strawberry seed oil also contains 0.008 mg/g gamma-tocotrienol.
It's important to note that the exact vitamin E content of plant oils can vary depending on factors such as the source, processing methods, and quality of the oil.
Best sources of tocotrienols
Tocotrienols are a rarer form of vitamin E.
The best sources tocotrienols are annatto seed, palm oil, rice bran oil and blueberry seed oil.
Annatto seeds
The highest natural source of tocotrienols is annatto seed (Bixa orellana).
Annatto seeds are from the achiote tree, which is found in tropical regions in South and Central America.
Almost all the vitamin E in annatto seeds is made up of tocotrienols with a range of 88.28 to 100% (Youg et al, 2014).
The total tocotrienols of annatto seeds (Bixa orellana L.) from 15 samples ranged from 0.37 to 4.42 mg/g tocotrienols (Youg et al, 2014).
Delta-tocotrienol is the major tocotrienol, followed by gamma-tocotrienol. Alpha-tocotrienol was not detectable in 7 of samples (Youg et al, 2014).
Annatto-based tocotrienols consist of 90% delta-tocotrienol and 10% gamma- tocotrienol.
Palm oil
Palm fruit is another rich source of tocotrienols among vegetable oils.
Tocotrienols make up almost 70% of vitamin E in palm oil, with the remaining 30% being tocopherols (Maarasyid et al, 2014).
Palm oil contains 15% alpha-tocotrienol, 28% gamma-tocotrienol, 6% delta-tocotrienol and 15% alpha-tocopherol (Ngoc et al, 2021; Wen et al, 2020)
Palm oil has been shown to contain 0.47 mg/g total tocotrienols, with 0.10 mg/g alpha-tocotrienol and 0.30 mg/g gamma-tocotrienol (Yong et al, 2014).
Rice bran oil
Rice bran oil has been shown to contain 0.19 mg/g total tocotrienols, with 0.14 mg/g gamma-tocotrienol and 0.04 mg/g alpha-tocotrienol (Yong et al, 2014).
Blueberry seed oil
Cold-pressed blueberry seed oil is a rich source of tocotrienols, and has been shown to contain 1.24 mg/g of delta-tocotrienol, as well as small amount of tocopherols, including 0.039 mg/g gamma-tocopherol and 0.016 mg/g alpha-tocopherol (Li et al, 2016).
Other sources of tocotrienols include rice bran oil, grape fruit seed oil, oats, hazelnuts, maize, olive oil, rye, flax seed oil, poppy seed oil and sunflower oil (Ahsan et al, 2015).
Best sources of plastochromnaol-8
The best source of plastochromnaol-8 is linseed oil (flax seed oil)
Linseed oil is a rich source of plastochromnaol-8 and contains 0.17 mg/g oil.
Wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil and corn oil are also sources of plastochromanol-8, with between 0.01 and 0.07 mg/g oil (Trela et al, 2019).
Types of vitamin E in skincare
Topical formulations often include various forms of vitamin E, including alpha-tocopherol, mixed tocopherols, tocotrienols and synthetic forms of vitamin E.
These different forms of vitamin E can be found in various concentrations and combinations in topical formulations, such as creams, lotions, serums, and oils, aimed at promoting skin health, protecting against environmental stressors, and providing moisturization.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 14 tocopherols and tocotrienols and concluded these ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics (Andersen et al, 2002; Fiume et al, 2018).
1. Mixed tocopherols
Tocopherols are a blend of alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol and/or gamma-tocopherol.
Functions in skincare: antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent
2. Mixed tocotrienols
Tocotrienols are a mixture of alpha-tocotrienols, gamma-tocotrienols and delta-tocotrienols.
Function in skincare: skin-conditioning agent
3. Tocopheryl acetate
Tocopheryl acetate is the ester of tocopherol and acetic acid.
Tocopheryl acetate is a stable ester form of vitamin E. It is commonly used in skincare products due to its enhanced stability and longer shelf life.
Functions in skincare: antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent
4. Tocopheryl linoleate
Tocopheryl linoleate is the ester of tocopherol and linoleic acid.
Functions in skincare: antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent
5. Tocopheryl linoleate/oleate
Tocopheryl linoleate/oleate is the ester of tocopherol and a mixture of linoleic acid and oleic acid.
Functions in skincare: antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent
6. Tocopheryl nicotinate
Tocopheryl nicotinate is the ester of tocopherol and nicotinic acid.
Functions in skincare: antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent
7. Tocopheryl succinate
Tocopheryl succinate is the ester of tocopherol and succinic acid.
Function in skincare: antioxidant
8. Dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol
Dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol is the dioleyl ether of tocopheryl acetate monoether with methylsilanetriol.
Functions in skincare: antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent
9. Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate
Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate is the potassium salt of ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate.
Function in skincare: antioxidant
10. Tocophersolan
Tocophersolan is the PEG-22 ester of tocopheryl succinate.
Function in skincare: antioxidant
11. Ascorbyl tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbyl tocopheryl acetate is an ascorbyl tocopheryl derivative with a glycolate linkage.
Function in skincare: skin-conditioning agent
12. Ascorbyl tocopheryl maleate
Ascorbyl tocopheryl maleate is an ascorbyl tocopheryl derivative with a maleate linkage.
Function in skincare: skin-conditioning agent, emollient
13. Tocopheryl phosphate
Tocopheryl phosphate is a complex mixture of tocopheryl phosphate ester; also, a complex mixture of tocopherol and phosphoric acid.
Function in skincare: hair-conditioning agent, surfactant—cleansing agent, surfactant—emulsifying agent
14. Sodium tocopheryl phosphate
Sodium tocopheryl phosphate is the sodium salt of a complex mixture of tocopheryl phosphate esters; also, the sodium salt of a complex mixture of esters of phosphoric acid and tocopherol.
Functions in skincare: antioxidant, emulsion stabilizer, reducing agent, skin-conditioning agent, surfactant, emulsifying agent, viscosity increasing agent
How much topical vitamin E?
Skincare containing a-tocopherol at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% are likely to be effective skin care measures to enhance antioxidant protection of the skin barrier (reviewed by Thiele et al, 2007).
Interestingly, researchers have shown that rinse off products containing vitamin E as alpha-tocopherol in concentrations as low as 0.2% leads to significantly increased levels of vitamin E in the stratum corneum of human skin and protects against lipid peroxidation in vivo (Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage et al., 2005).
Vitamin E concentrations between 0.1–1.0% are generally considered to be safe and effective for increasing vitamin E levels in the skin, but higher levels of alpha-tocopherol have been used with no apparent side effects.
Vitamin E as alpha-tocopherol or tocopherol acetate is used in over-the-counter products in concentrations ranging from 1.0 to 5.0% (reviewed by Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto et al, 2021).
Using high doses of vitamin E (i.e. 100% vitamin E) on your skin is not recommended, as this may increase the risk of dermatitis.
Talk to your doctor or dermatologist about using topical vitamin E.
Summary
Vitamin E is an essential nutrient and it is the most abundant fat-soluble antioxidant in your skin.
Vitamin E is a family of related compounds with different vitamin E activities and antioxidant properties that includes tocopherols, tocotrienols and plastochromanol-8.
Vitamin E is naturally found in vegetable oils, nuts and seeds. Plant oils are a natural source of vitamin E, including tocopherols, tocotrienols and plastochromanol-8.
Each form of vitamin E has unique properties, but alpha-tocopherol is the most widely recognized and extensively researched form.
Vitamin E is found naturally in your skin barrier, and vitamin E concentrations in your outer skin barrier decline with age, UV exposure and pollution.
Vitamin E has numerous benefits for your skin, it is a skin conditioning agent, powerful antioxidant and can protect against photodamage from the sun.
Topical formulations often include various forms of vitamin E, including alpha-tocopherol, mixed tocopherols, tocotrienols and synthetic forms of vitamin E.
These different forms of vitamin E can be found in various concentrations and combinations in topical formulations, such as creams, lotions, serums, and oils.
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Author Information
Dr. Natasha Ryz is a scientist, skin care expert and an entrepreneur. She is the founder of Dry Skin Love Skincare, and she creates skincare products for beauty, dry skin and pain relief.
Dr. Ryz has a PhD in Experimental Medicine from the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, and she is a Vanier scholar. She also holds a Master of Science degree and a Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Manitoba in Winnipeg.
Natasha is the former Chief Science Officer of Zenabis Global, and she oversaw extraction, analytics, and product development. Her team brought 20 products to market including oils, sprays, vapes and softgels.
Why I Started A Skincare Company