The skin's moisture barrier is a part of your skin barrier.
The skin's moisture barrier keeps your skin hydrated by trapping and holding water into your skin.
To prevent dry or dehydrated skin, you must protect your skin barrier, including your skin's moisture barrier.
To protect you skin's moisture barrier, try drinking water, use a humidifier, use a moisturizer with humectants, protect your skin from wind, cold weather and sun exposure, and always wear sunscreen or sunblock, especially when you go outside.
This article will discuss:
- What is the skin's moisture barrier?
- Normal skin hydration
- Water and skin cell turnover
- How to protect your skin's moisture barrier:
- Drink water
- Use a humidifier
- Use a moisturizer with humectants
- Limit exposure to cold weather
- Protect your skin from the elements
- Summary
- References
What is the skin's moisture barrier?
The skin's moisture barrier is a part of your skin barrier.
The skin's moisture barrier ensures your skin is hydrated by trapping and holding water into your skin.
The skin's moisture barrier is composed of water, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and other humectants, such as glycerol and hyaluronic acid to attract and hold onto moisture.
Learn more: What is The Skin's Moisture Barrier?
Normal skin hydration
Water is essential for the normal functioning of the skin.
The water content of skin is remarkably high - the epidermis (the outer skin layer) contains more than 70% water, while its outermost layer, the stratum corneum has been shown to contain ~15 - 25% water (Warner et al, 1988; Caspers et al, 2001; Caspers et al, 2003).
- it maintains plasticity of the skin, protecting it from damage
- it contributes to optimum stratum corneum barrier function
- it allows hydrolytic enzymes to function in the process of desquamation
When the water content of the stratum corneum falls below 10%, scaling on the skin surface becomes visible (Rycroft, 1985).
The retention of water in the skin is dependent on:
- Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and other humectants (such as glycerol and hyaluronic acid) to attract and hold onto moisture
- Intercellular lipids (fats) that form a barrier to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Verdier-Sévrain et al, 2007).
Water and skin cell turnover
Desquamation is the natural process of shedding skin cells.
New skin cells are formed at the base layer of the skin, and they differentiate and migrate towards the skin surface, in a process that takes approximately 4 weeks. Nearly a billion cells are lost each day from the surface of adult skin (Milstone et al, 2004).
One of the critical functions of water in the skin is to participate in hydrolytic enzymatic processes required for normal desquamation.
In other words - water is necessary for the enzymes to function properly.
If the skin water content falls below a critical level, the enzymatic function required for normal desquamation is impaired, leading to skin cells sticking and building up on the skin surface (Verdier-Sévrain et al, 2007).
These changes lead to the visible appearance of dryness, roughness, scaling, and flaking (Verdier-Sévrain et al, 2007).
Learn more: What is Dehydrated Skin?
How to protect your skin's moisture barrier
The skin's moisture barrier is composed of water, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and other humectants, such as glycerol and hyaluronic acid to attract and hold onto moisture.
There are several ways to protect your skin's moisture barrier:
- Drink water
- Use a humidifier
- Use a moisturizer with humectants
- Limit exposure to cold weather
- Protect your skin from the elements
1. Drink water
Water is involved in virtually all bodily functions.
Thus, ensuring that the body has enough water to maintain proper function is important for health.
Drinking water can increase your skin hydration, especially if you have a low water intake.
Drinking an additional 2 L of daily water over 30 days showed an increase in both stratum corneum hydration and “deep” skin hydration, particularly when the individual’s regular diet included low amounts of water (Palma et al, 2012; Palma et al, 2015a; Palma et al, 2015b).
Another experimental study reported a slight increase in stratum corneum hydration after an additional dietary water intake of 1 L per day for a period of 42 days (Mac-Mary et al, 2006).
For hydrated skin, it is best to aim for 6 - 8 glasses of water or other fluids per day, as is recommended for general health.
Learn more: Does Drinking Water Help Dry Skin? Yes
2. Use a humidifier
Low humidity can worsen winter dry skin.
Studies in humans show a reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (a measure of the integrity of the skin's barrier function) with low humidity, alterations in the water content in the stratum corneum, decreased skin elasticity and increased roughness (Goad et al, 2016).
Indeed, when your skin is exposed to a dry environment, it could be more susceptible to mechanical stress (Engebretsen et al, 2016).
Dry air can be problematic for dry skin but using a humidifier can help improve dry skin by adding moisture back into the air.
Humidifiers are devices that release water vapor or steam to increase moisture levels in the air - i.e., increase humidity.
It's best to keep indoor humidity levels between 30-50%.
If the air in your home is too dry, then your dry skin will benefit from a humidifier.
It is generally thought that humidity levels within occupied spaces should not exceed 60%, and when levels of humidity fall to around 30% or below, occupants begin to feel thermal discomfort (Goad et al, 2016).
Learn more: Does A Humidifier Help with Dry Skin? Yes!
3. Use a moisturizer with humectants
You can protect your skin's moisture barrier by using a moisturizer that contains humectants.
Humectants help to attract and hold onto water and maintain hydration in the skin.
Humectants include natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), hyaluronic acid and glycerol.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a substance that occurs naturally in the body and is found in the skin, joints, and connective tissue. Hyaluronic acid is well known as one of the major components of the dermis, and is highly hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb moisture from the air.
Hyaluronic acid provides hydration and structural integrity to the dermis (Verdier-Sévrain et al, 2007).
In skincare, it is used for its powerful hydrating properties, as it can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. This makes it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products, as it helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by plumping and hydrating the skin.
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) composed of disaccharides, which are molecules made up of two sugar units. Specifically, it is made up of a repeating sequence of two sugars: glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. The disaccharides are linked together by glycosidic bonds to form a long chain polymer.
The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid can vary, with some forms having a low molecular weight and others having a high molecular weight. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is able to penetrate the skin more easily and deeply, while high molecular weight hyaluronic acid stays on the surface of the skin, providing a more immediate plumping and hydrating effect.
There are different types of hyaluronic acid that can be used in skincare products. The main types include:
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High molecular weight hyaluronic acid: This type of hyaluronic acid has a larger molecular weight, which means it stays on the surface of the skin and provides a more immediate plumping and hydrating effect. It helps to create a moisture barrier on the skin to prevent water loss.
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Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid: This type of hyaluronic acid has a smaller molecular weight, which allows it to penetrate the skin more deeply. It can help to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, leading to a more youthful and radiant complexion.
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Cross-linked hyaluronic acid: This type of hyaluronic acid has been chemically modified to create a more stable structure. It is often used in dermal fillers to add volume and smooth out wrinkles.
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Sodium hyaluronate: This is a salt form of hyaluronic acid that is more stable and has a smaller molecular weight, making it easier to penetrate the skin. It is often used in skincare products for its hydrating and plumping properties.
Overall, the type of hyaluronic acid used in skincare products will depend on the specific formulation and intended use of the product. Different types of hyaluronic acid can provide different benefits for the skin.
Glycerol
Glycerol is also known as glycerin.
Interestingly, it has been shown that glycerol is made by our skin in the pilosebaceous unit and transported through aquaporin-3 (AQP3) channels to the skin.
Endogenous glycerol plays a role in skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity and epidermal barrier repair (Fluhr et al, 2008).
The beneficial effects of glycerol on the skin have been recognized for over 75 years, and glycerol has been widely used as an ingredient of skincare formulations for its moisturizing and smoothing effects (Fluhr et al, 2008).
4. Limit exposure to cold weather
Anyone who has felt the sting of frostbite knows that cold temperatures can damage your skin.
Frostbite can occur during cold-weather activities when the temperature is below 0°C (<32°F). When skin temperature is -4°C (25°F), ice crystals form in the blood, causing mechanical damage, inflammation, thrombosis, and cellular death. Lower temperatures, higher wind speeds, and moisture exacerbate the process (Knapik et al, 2020).
5. Protect your skin from the elements
Daily insults from the environment, such as low humidity, wind, and sun, can lower the skin's water content, causing improper desquamation and the appearance of dry, flaky skin (Verdier-Sévrain et al, 2007).
Strong wind causes dry skin
Strong cold winds can strip moisture from exposed skin and disrupt the skin barrier.
In a study with healthy woman, a decrease in skin hydration and an increase in dryness score were found after the exposure to cold and dry wind (Roure et al, 2012).
To protect your skin from wind damage, wear protective clothing, including a toque, face covering and gloves to protect your hands.
Sun exposure causes dry skin
Ultraviolet (UV) exposure from sunlight can damage dry skin.
In temperate latitudes, UV peaks on the summer solstice and is lowest at the winter solstice, though indirect, diffuse UV can still be high in winter (Kerr et al, 2005).
The UV Index is low during the winter in Canada, but skiing and other outdoor winter activities can increase your exposure. Bright white surfaces like snow can double your exposure to UV. If you are skiing or doing other activities in the mountains, you will receive even more UV due to the elevation.
UV exposure from the sun is still a concern during the winter months in Canada and proper sunscreen or sunblock should be worn when spending time outdoors.
Summary
The moisture barrier is a part of your skin barrier.
The moisture barrier is composed of water, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and other humectants, such as glycerol and hyaluronic acid to attract and hold onto moisture.
The moisture barrier ensures your skin is hydrated by trapping and holding water into your skin.
To protect your moisture barrier:
- Drink adequate water and fluids
- Use a humidifier
- Use a moisturizer with humectants
- Limit exposure to cold weather
- Protect your skin from the elements- wind and sun
- Wear a face cover and gloves to protect against wind exposure
- Wear sunscreen and sunblock to protect against sun exposure
To prevent dry or dehydrated skin, you must protect your skin barrier, including your skin's moisture barrier.
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References
Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Mukherjee S, Chandar P. Stratum corneum fatty acids: their critical role in preserving barrier integrity during cleansing. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Aug;35(4):337-45.
Caspers PJ, Lucassen GW, Carter EA et al. In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy of the skin: noninvasive determination of molecular concentration profiles. J Invest Dermatol 2001; 116:434– 42.
Caspers PJ, Lucassen GW, Puppels GJ. Combined in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and confocal microscopy of human skin. Biophys J 2003 July; 85: 572-80.
Engebretsen KA, Johansen JD, Kezic S, Linneberg A, Thyssen JP. The effect of environmental humidity and temperature on skin barrier function and dermatitis. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016 Feb;30(2):223-49.
Fluhr JW, Darlenski R, Surber C. Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions. Br J Dermatol. 2008.
Fowler J. Understanding the Role of Natural Moisturizing Factor in Skin Hydration. Practical Dermatology. 2012; July. 36-40.
Goad N, Gawkrodger DJ. Ambient humidity and the skin: the impact of air humidity in healthy and diseased states. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016 Aug;30(8):1285-94.
Kerr JB. Understanding the factors that affect surface ultraviolet radiation. Optimal Engineering. 2005;44.
Knapik JJ, Reynolds KL, Castellani JW. Frostbite: Pathophysiology, Epidemiology, Diagnosis, Treatment, and Prevention. J Spec Oper Med. 2020 Winter;20(4):123-135.
Mac-Mary S, Creidi P, Marsaut D, et al. Assessment of effects of an additional dietary natural mineral water uptake on skin hydration in healthy subjects by dynamic barrier function measurements and clinic scoring. Skin Res Technol. 2006;12:199-205.
Milstone LM. Epidermal desquamation. J Dermatol Sci. 2004 Dec;36(3):131-40.
Palma L, Marques LT, Bujan J, et al. Dietary water affects human skin hydration and biomechanics. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015a;8:413-421.
Palma ML, Tavares L, Fluhr JW, et al. Positive impact of dietary water on in vivo epidermal water physiology. Skin Res Technol. 2015b;21:413-418.
Palma L, Marques LT, Bujan J, et al. Relationship between the dietary intake of water and skin hydration. Biomed Biopharm Res, 2012; 2: 173-181.
Roure R, Lanctin M, Nollent V et al. Methods to assess the protective efficacy of emollients against climatic and chemical aggressors. Dermatol Res Pract 2012; 2012: 864734.
Rycroft RJ. Low humidity and microtrauma. Am J Ind Med 1985; 8:371–3.
Verdier-Sévrain S, Bonté F. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Jun;6(2):75-82.
Warner RR, Myers MC, Taylor DA. Electron probe analysis of human skin: determination of the water concentration profile. J Invest Dermatol 1988; 90: 218–24.
Author Information
Dr. Natasha Ryz is a scientist, skin care expert and an entrepreneur. She is the founder of Dry Skin Love Skincare, and she creates skincare products for beauty, dry skin and pain relief.
Dr. Ryz has a PhD in Experimental Medicine from the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, and she is a Vanier scholar. She also holds a Master of Science degree and a Bachelor of Science degree from the University of Manitoba in Winnipeg.
Natasha is the former Chief Science Officer of Zenabis Global, and she oversaw cannabis extraction, analytics, and product development. Her team brought 20 products to market including oils, sprays, vapes and softgels.
Why I Started A Skincare Company